Christmas With Kasisi Children's Home

Back in May, I emailed Sister Mariola of Kasisi Children's Home in Lusaka, Zambia about the possibility of spending some time at the orphanage during Christmas. I discovered them while reading an article online. After a lengthy application process which included two recommendations from colleagues (thank you Monica and Alex), I was welcomed to come. I left Victoria Falls in Christmas Eve and flew to Lusaka from Livingstone on an airplane that was half the size of the bus I had been on for the last two weeks. I did my best to manage that flight but never again!
Sister Mariola and Sister Maria picked me up from the airport after a phone call a nice agent let me make. Truth be told, I had no idea what I was doing at Kasisi my first day there. It's been three days now and I am happy to say that I have a better idea now. It's really up to me as to how I want to spent my time there. I've sort of figured out a routine. In the morning, we have 7am mass. I am not religious, spiritual but not religious, out of respect, I attend the services. Besides, having 11 year old Alice say to me every morning, "Chapel?" is tough to turn down. I connected with Alice during my first day here. She is living at the orphanage with tuberculosis. She follows me around now whenever I make an appearance out of my room. The Sisters were nice enough to let me stay here at the orphanage ... feeding me as well!
There are 219 kids here from the age of 4 months (she is the newest member as her mother passed) and of those 219 kids, 60 of them are living with HIV. To be admitted to the orphanage, the child's mother must have passed. I spend a little bit of my mornings with the toddlers but I've connected well with the 10-12 year old girls so I spend my days reading, doing math and drawing with them. I take them one by one during the day..not very structured at all and they all have different levels of motivation. Alice likes to draw so I watch her draw.. I am finding that even when the girls are not very social.. they like it that you're around. The highlight so far of my stay here is teaching Alice the names of each finger. It's been three days and she's remembered them all now. The way she giggles and lights up when I tell her she is right is amazing!

Hope everyone is having a Merry Christmas and see ya'll in the New Year!

Chasing Rainbows in Zimbabwe!

We arrived in Zimbabwe early yesterday crossing the bridge and border into Victoria Falls. After settling down and getting things situated, I ventured out for some alone time walking the trails of the Vitoria Falls Park. What an amazing site! It is amazing to me that it's a natural.. all natural and so powerful! I enjoyed it so much that I did the walk twice. Once by myself and the second time with Aditya. Definitely more rainbows the second time around.. must have been the timing. Many times, I stood there in awe, getting as close to the edge of the falls as I felt safe and just marveled at the power of it! Amazing!! This morning, I got up early and walked over to the Victoria Falls Hotel to watch the sunrise over the Vic Falls Bridge. It was magical.

Sadly, today marks the last day of the tour I am on. In fact, it ended earlier this morning. Many of the people on my tour group will be continuing on their own travel adventures well through the new year and one couple for the entire year of 2012! I look forward to hearing about the rest of their journey. I am already thinking up of my itinerary for the next time I come back to Africa! The first part of my African adventure ended and now awaiting to start the second half. I will be boarding a flight from Livingstone, Zambia to Lusaka and will be spending the remainder of my year at the Kasisi Orphanage Childrens Home.


It has been two weeks since I have landed in Africa and I can safely say that I am no longer phased by the fact that when I walk into a room, geckos, beetles, and insects and flies of all types can be accompanying you. I do find comfort in the protection of the mosquito net!! Mexico City Frank will be proud that I no longer need him to come clear out the bugs!

If I am not able to get online in the next day or so.. Merry Christmas everybody. We all have so much to be thankful and grateful for!

Driving Across Zambia!

I boarded a plane back at SFO on 12/7. According to my watch, it's 12/22 now and here in Zambia I am 10 hours ahead. Last I wrote, we were a day shy of crossing the boarder into Zambia. Malawi was amazing and I will remember it as the warm country of thunder, lightening and rain. The most impressive was while I was in Chitimba when we were caught in between two storms.. it felt as though worlds were colliding. I imagine if that was the case, that was what it would have sounded like. What was more impressive was while that storms were colliding, my new friend Francisco fro Mexico City was sleeping in the chalet next door, snoring away. Amazing!! I told him about it during an evening chat under the African skies on the steps of our beach front chalets (bug infested ..don't be too jealous), he looked at me in all seriousness and says, "I still snore?" I fell to the floor laughing. It was almost as funny as him telling me about hipsters in Mexico City riding fixie bikes.. "You're in Mexico ..riding a fixie.. what's up with that?"

We've spent the last 3 days driving across the country of Zambia. Chitpata was the first town we stayed in since crossing the border. We stayed one night there and continued onto Lusaka. Lusaka is the first main city I have been to since out first days in Africa back at Dar Es Salaam. It's definitely a different scene.. instead of kids coming out to wave at you... we had kids lining the street curbs asking you for cigs. We shared our Lusaka Campsite with zebras, giraffes and these big elk buffalo looking things. A group of us went on a walk through the campgrounds to see what we can find.. the campground terrier dogs led the way. I was nervous that they would become lunch for some of the wildlife!! Towards the end of our walk, the funniest thing happened.. we came upon the buffalo elk looking animals stopped in our tracks afraid to proceed. I mean , they were huge!! The three terrier dogs on the other hand ran fearless towards them as if they were our protectors barking away.. one of them.. with three legs lost balance and slid across the road.. we all bent down in laughter. This morning, as we were leaving, they were terrorizing the zebras.


We arrived in Livingstone, Zambia this afternoon after what seemed to be the never ending bus ride. A few of us hung out in town for a bit and I do have to say.. it was refreshing to not be asked for money or to buy stuff. I might even start to miss the words. "I'll give you a good price." I do find myself thinking about a conversation we had back in Malawi with Hudson and the school master.. he mentioned that school was free for kids but that they had to buy their own uniforms and because of that.. not all kids go to school. They can't afford the uniforms.

Back to current.. Our campsite is next to the Zambezi River which should make for a beautiful sunset! Tomorrow, we cross the border to Zimbabwe and go to Victoria Falls! In a few days, this tour ends and the next chapter of my African Adventure awaits back in Lusaka, Zambia!

Malawi ...Warms the Heart

We left Iringa, Tanzania early morning a few days ago and arrived in Chitimba, Malawi after another 12 hour bus ride. It appears that somewhere between that time, I had lost my voice to a cough of some sort but with Dom (our cook) making me a potent lime juice/honey drink throughout one of the worst days, I was able to speak again! I seem to have lucked out with this tour group.. you never know when you travel with a tour group.. it's a crap shoot as to what staff or other travelers you'd get. Lucky me, we have a great guide in JT, a very skilled driver in Syrus who was able to maneuver us by a skin of the road during a malfunction of another trunk, Dom a cook who can cook his way to any woman's heart (or man) and then the group itself is of great people and similar ages- score!

 My first impression of Malawi are of the never ending roads that seem to carry on forever, like Lake Malawi that is 365 miles long. The people appear warmer and the land itself feels warmer. I prefer it much more than Tanzania already! Since I arrived in Tanzania some days ago, there has not been a day that there has been no power outage. Well, yesterday being the first one. In Chitimba, we woke up to two powerful storms coming from opposing directions at the same time-- it was pretty frightening. I was in my hut with the covers over my eyes not wanting to go outside because the dogs were going nuts. New friend, Aditija confirmed so as he said they tried to attack him! LOL.

Chitimba is a laid back village in the northern part of Malawi. San Franciscan and new friend, Brittany and I ventured off to a little village walk. We were escorted by kids named Hudson, Fantastic Steve, Patrick and a few of their friends. We visited a school and a witch doctor. The witch doctor charged $10 for a dance and $5 for a reading but to clear his head, he has to dance so we had to buy both services from him- funny right?! After escorting us, the kids brought us back to their shopping booths where we were urged to share our business .. meaning if we bought a bracelet from one of the kids... we'd have to buy from another.. sharing business. They were nice kids so I didn't mind.

Having said that, one thing I can go without is the constant haggling we get from people wanting you to buy things from them. This was especially in Tanzania. One cannot step outside the camp without collecting an entourage of local folks joining you on your path and while the kids are adorable.. you never know if they are curious about you or if they're awaiting for something to be given to them. Probably both.

Hanging out in Kande Beach for another day today and then we stop off in Lilongwe before crossing over to Zambia!

Hakuna Matata in Tanzania

After back to back 10 hour flights with a 5 hour layover in Heathrow, I finally arrived in Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania. Immediately, post arrival, I stood in line with everyone else, passport and $100 in hand in order to get my visa. It was a pretty lengthy wait so patience hat was heavily utilized.. and then at last my name was called and got my passport back.. out to luggage and there was my bag waiting for me.. grabbed it.. tossed it over my back and out the gate to a throng of overwhelming strangers..one in particular stood out though.. after all he was holding a sign with my name on it.. instant comfort!


Mr. Taxi Driver took my bag from me and then off we went. My first impression of Tanzania was that it reminded me of China 30 some years ago when I was living there. Throngs of people walking in the village streets (except in China they were on bikes) and just the scene was a bit familiar. Drove through city traffic and a ferry later, I was dropped off at Kipepeo Camp where I would depart the next day with my group. Next day arrived, met my group, and one of the first couples I meet happen to be from San Francisco, small world! Off to Zanzibar we go!

 Our first night in Zanzibar was spent in Stonetown where there is a lively night market that take place every evening.. I did not get too adventurous though.. stuck with a nutella Zanzibar Pizza. After a night in Stonetown, we ventured north to Nungwi where we baked in the sun for a few days.

After our time in Zanzibar, we went back to Dar for one night before a 10-12 hour bus ride to Iringa where we stayed in a cute little campsite called, "The Old Farm House" where I would have my first hot shower in a week?

Tanzania as a whole is ...BIG! I learned that if you ask a man how many cows he has, he will take that as a sign of interest and proposal. Funny, I know. People here speak English but I have a tough time understanding them..for example.. in Zanzibar I was enjoying the sunset with my new friend Susi from Australia. The waiter comes and we have a whole conversation about the chips I ordered. He would say something...I'd nod.. repeat. He would walk away and I say to Susi.. I have no idea what he just said. Susi then translated the whole dialog for me- amazing and funny at the time. Hakuna Matata seems to be the moto of Tanzania. Two hours waiting for your food to come.. Hakuna Matata they would say. Looking lost... Hakuna Matata they would say. Of the 5-6 days I spent in Tanzania, I would say that the long bus ride from Dar to Iringa was one of the highlights for me. The scenery of the various villages, roads, and surroundings were all amazing. The kids along the side of the roads would run out and wave with big smiles on their faces and if you waved back, their smiles grew bigger!

Africa.. here we go!

Destination: Zanzibar, Malawi, Zambia and Victoria Falls.

I can't believe it's finally here! I had two big to do's today: 1. go to the bank 2. decide on the luggage that will accompany me for this adventure. I usually travel with a backpackers bag that by now I have been fortunate enough to cover it up with patches from every country I have visited.. after all.. makes for good story telling as I meet people along the way. But after much thought, I've decided to go the waterproof route in the form of my north face medium base camp duffel! In the duffel, we have a sleeping bag, sleeping mat, pillow, clothes, a wipe for every purpose (sunscreen, insect, facial, body, etc) and most notably- Bananagrams which I intend to leave at the orphanage!

I have been intrigued with traveling to Africa ever since I can remember. One of my best friends from high school and I was supposed to go a few years back but life happened and I ended up heading to Greece instead. I have to say, of all the years I've traveled, aside from the first trip I've ever took solo, I've not felt as excited or nervous as I am feeling right now.

Crossing my fingers that my the back inflammations/pain that have decided to make an appearance as of late decides to make a disappearance!! And with that, let the adventure begin!