At last! After 27 hours of travel, I finally arrived in Luang Prabang, Laos. Noreen (who I reunited with at BKK) and I got off the propeller plane like zombies and as we were walking at a leisurely pace across the tarmac, it dawned on me that we should beat everyone else to the visa line! We picked up the pace and was able to de-plane, walk across the tarmac, secure our visas and was on our tuk tuk taxi to our guesthouse in less than 10 minutes! Shortly after, we arrived at the Manichan Guesthouse where we were greeted by the owner, Andy. "Hey One!" he says and then follows with, "did you get my email? Did you get that joke? Your Chinese name means one!" Ha ha, funny funny. Andy is from Boston who followed a woman to China many years ago and things didn't pan out so he moved to Laos for another woman. I might have just made the latter up but makes sense to me as he runs the guesthouse with his Lao wife.
Luang Prabang..such a lazy slow paced town. I would have never thought. We spent out first day walking our zombie-selves in circles, getting my photographic memory on and just exploring the streets. Day two, Andy arranged a tuk tuk to take us to the Kuang Si waterfalls about 30km away which I highly recommend for anyone coming to this part of the world. The waters while frigid was the bluest of waters I had ever seen and the most refreshing (and cold) of swims I've ever had. The pre-arranged price for our tuk tuk was $220,000 kip is which about $27 US and that is the set price. The more people you put on it, the cheaper it becomes as you split the pre-set cost. On our way back, this American guy and his South Korean wife needed a lift back so he hopped in with us. I heard our driver quote them $50.000 kip each so then I quickly hopped out and asked him to re-quote the price for Noreen and I. Technically, he wasn't supposed to accept new passengers as he is considered a private hire but I wouldn't have left the couple stranded. Travelers help other travelers out (just like the German guys that said "don't do it" as we were about to hop into a place for lunch)! After a bit of a semi comical exchange between me explaining to him that I'm not letting him over charge us and the couple making sure they still had a ride, we came to the agreement that the price for Noreen and I would come down to $150,000 kip. I get back on the tuk tuk and Noreen asks, "what just happened?!" We will not be gipped!
While having breakfast one of the mornings, Andy tells us that a guy from Germany who was traveling with a kayak stayed with him but has now been reported missing. Andy said the embassy was on it and that he has been getting inquiries from his family and the only thing Andy remembers is that the German was going to kayak down the Mekong. Whatever the slightest chance is, I hope he is alive and ok.
Aside from the morning market where locals buy their produce and the night markets where locals price gauge travelers. One of the happenings this town is known for is the monks call to alms in the early mornings. Monks go around collecting foods from the generosity of locals as a ceremony of giving. However, leave it to tourism to ruin the whole experience with companies transporting vans of tourists who go all out paparazzi in the monk's faces during this meditative ceremony. Noreen and I observed from afar with our zoom lens. We actually quietly followed their route from a respectable distance. I called it level 1 stalking.
The weather in Laos has been pleasant. It's foggy cold in the mornings until about 11am and then the welcomed warmth from the sun hits and you just want to look up at the skies and smile in content. The the raging afternoon heat really kicks in around 1pm and that's when you duck in for $6/hour foot massage! At least that's what I've done. The streets aren't overly crowded, I would say empty at times but pretty lively over at the backpacking hot spot. Crowds here tend to be on the older side and by older I mean at least 30's..not a whole lotta 20's. Unlike my observation in Vietnam, traveling couples here actually seem like they're having a good time with eachother! I've asked Andy numerous times if he was sure this is high season that it's now become a joke. Whenever I say, "Hey Andy..." He'll say, "Yes Yi, it's high season!" Food in Luang Prabang is abundant and cheap! We've been eating well at lunch averaging $6 or $7 each and then hitting the Night Market food on a stick for dinner averaging about $2 each. Noreen offered to pay out guesthouse bill if I are a whole grilled bat on a stick but I prefer the $80 bill however tasty Mr. Bat might be. Beer Lao hits at about $1.25 a bottle..no complaints here!
Sitting outdoors overlooking the Nam Khan river enjoying some drinks on a lazy afternoon, I say to Noreen, "All we're missing is some good old slow jams from the 1980's!" Noreen says, "I feel like I'm dressed from the 80s. What was I thinking?!" When traveling in SE Asia...!
Prior to coming to Luang Prabang, I was uncharacteristically stressed about situations that had moved to an "out of my control" phase. Leave it to 4 days at this town and the monks to instill the calmness and perspective back in me. It actually also means I waited too long to take this vacation!
Our last day happened to be my birthday. Andy and the breakfast table which consisted of folks from LA and Portland serenaded me in birthday song with a chocolate crepe. Noreen and I pampered ourselves at the Burasari spa- a 2 hour massage for $75. Excessive for Laos prices but a steal compared to where we are from! Here's to another fabulous 365 days around the sun! May I strive to live each day less out of habit but more out of intent.
Tomorrow, we take a morning flight out of Luang Prabang then we're on three back to back flights with different airlines to get ourselves to Bagan, Myanmar where I will lift the shopping veto I've put on Noreen! Our bags have to make carry on for the back to back flights: Luang Prabang to Bangkok. Bangkok to Yangon. Yangon to Bagan. Wish us luck!
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